Storing and preserving documents and historical artifacts

The following information was condensed from the conversation held October 20, 2007 on KMOS Live: The War "Saving Your Memories". The program participants who provided the advice are:

Charles Machon is with the National Guard and is a curator. He has received awards rewarded in service for genealogy.
       Contact info: (573)638-9500

Amber Clifford is an expert on textiles and preservation of and a UCM instructor of Anthropology.
       Contact info: UCM archives & museum or MO State Archives website (listed as officially approved conservator).

Vivian Richardson specializes in photography.
       Contact info: UCM Archives & museum; (660)543-4649; vrichardson@ucmo.edu

James Downey specializes in the restoration of documents.
       Contact info: Also listed on MO state archives (listed for book conservation); Legacybookbindery.com

Cleaning/Removing Stains:
*        It is best not to attempt removal of stains.
*        Water stains cannot be removed. Bleach only speeds the process.
*        Cleaning should be avoided in older uniforms, especially WWII/Vietnam Era uniforms, because chemicals are bad,
          especially for the fibers.
*        Dry-cleaning should also be avoided.
*        If it must be cleaned, know the material, carefully hand wash, and flat dry.
*        Steaming is unnecessary, and will damage some old fabrics such as lace or silks. Embroidery may also run.

Storing
*        Store in a hope chest, tucked away in a dark, dry place.
*        Ideally, clothing should be folded loosely.
*        Do not keep it in a dry cleaning bag hanging in a closed. Within 2-3 days, mold can grow from the humidity.
*        Avoid wearing old uniforms/dresses.

Current fabrics:
*        Can be washed and dry cleaned, but do not leave in the dry cleaning bag.
*        Loosely fold and pack in tissue paper.
*        Tuck away in a box where it is cool, dry, and dark.
*        If the box is made of wood, old wood is better.

Canvas Leggings:
If in good shape:
*        If leggings are open and flexible, stuff it so it appears to be in the shape intended on the human body.
*        First, buy knee-high panty-hose and poly-fill (inert polyester used to stuff pillows).
*        Stuff the knee-highs with poly-fill, put it in the leggings, and store.

If in poor shape:
*        If leggings are stuck together badly, can steam apart.
*        Put a steam kettle on and hold/roll the canvas six to eight inches above the steam. They will eventually relax enough to
          pull apart.
*        Use an item, such as a coke bottle, to hold the leggings apart while they dry.
*        Buy knee-high panty-hose and poly-fill (inert polyester used to stuff pillows).
*        Stuff the knee-highs with poly-fill, put it in the leggings, and store.

*        Keep tucked away from sunlight.
*        Touch them as little as possible, and when you do touch them, use cotton gloves.
*        If want to view/share, a good idea is to get a scan/copy and have that out to look at instead.
*        An archival/acid-free box is preferable for storing.
*        Store in a place where it is dark and the humidity and temperature won't fluctuate much, such as a closet.
*        Poor places to store include garages, attics, and basements.
*        Poly-plastic sleeves are good for storing.
*        Avoid storing photos lose, as humidity or even just the weight of the photos on top of each other can cause them to stick.
*        If storing in a plastic container, avoid PBC plastics. They acidic and can destroy photos. They are typically solid and color,
          and usually don't have the recycled symbol.
*        If kept dry and out of light, with the modern technology available, old negatives can often be developed. Some damaged
          negatives can be partially developed. Such negatives should be taken to a professional/specialist.
*        Chances are slim that photos can be removed from old magnetic frames. Take them to a conservator, and find someone
          who can make a copy of the photo.
*        Paintings, if hung, should be on an inside wall. Avoid direct light, and occasionally dust lightly with in a way that leaves no
          residue. In addition, if the backing is wood, one might want to take it to a professional to have the backing changed. Wood           will deteriorate and is acidic, so it could cause problems.

Separating Sticking Photos:

*        There probably is no safe way to separate sticking photos, but they may relax with humidity. Put in a humidity chamber
          for a very short time.
*        If they are important photos, bring them to a photograph conservator.
*        Also, it might be wise to find someone who can make copies and copy the photo before attempting.

8mm & VHS Movies:

*        If the 8 mm film as has strong vinegar smell (called Vinegar Syndrome), it may be too late to save it.
*        If the film is still pliable, it may be saved.
*        Do not delay in calling a conservator or photo-specialist, who may be able to copy it to VHS/DVD.
*        If storing a VHS, store standing upright.
*        VHS can be copied to DVD with relative ease.

*        Do not laminate.
*        Keep out of direct sunlight.
*        If wanting to share, make a copy and store the original. Exposure damage from making the copy would be less than
          having it repeatedly handled.
*        Mylar sleeves can be used to protect documents, and can get bought from such companies as Light Impressions.
*        Avoid folding and unfolding documents. Documents should be gently unfolded and flattened. Let the paper relax for a day
          or two; perhaps even put a light weight (such as magazines) on top of it. Do not cross-fold.
*        It is important, for historical purposes, to keep letters with their envelopes, but if it is shared/handled often, not folded up
          in the envelopes.
*        May need de-acidified with a de-acidifier spray, which should never be used on photographs. From the civil war to the
          early 1960's, probably all paper is acidic and should be de-acidified and stored properly.
*        It might be a good idea to keep documents in good Mylar covers in a three-ring binder with good archival paper/backing,
          so you can read without touching. Such binders should be stored in a dark, safe place.
*        De-acidifying sprays, acid-free paper, acid-free board, etc. can be found at any good art supply store, scrap booking
          stores, and specialty stores.
*        For information on birth certificates and other historical documents, or to direct you to possible interest groups, contact
          State Archives and ask for a research assistant. Much of the communication with the research assistant can be done
          online, though it may be necessary to meet in person. In Missouri, State Archives is in Jefferson City.
*        For rebinding or preserving damaged book bindings, see a conservator (there is a list on the state archives website) or go to Legacybookbindery.com

*        With materials such as medals and instruments, where there is more than one type of material present, it is necessary to
          prioritize. Whichever material is the most damaged should be addressed first. With instruments, it is sometimes
          impossible to fix or preserve some aspects of the instrument, but restorer can restore that instrument.
*        Never polish metal instruments. It can damage the instrument.
*        When making shadowboxes, take care to use acid-free materials. Do not hang on an outside well, and avoid direct light. If
          there is a glass cover, maintenance should be unnecessary.
*        If framing textiles, a vent in the frame is necessary because textiles produce humidity different from other materials. This
          vent should have a screen to avoid damage from insects.
*        Archival framing for historical documents and artifacts is best. You should tell the framing store you want archival framing
          and light to medium tecum flexi-glass.
*        For display, incandescent light bulbs are better than fluorescent. Fluorescents can be acceptable with a filter.
*        The first priority when storing older weapons is to make sure it has no ammunition in it. If ammo is in the weapon, contact
          your local gunsmith on how to proceed.
*        If displaying a weapon, lay on acid-free, non-bleach, muslin cloth. Ideal humidity for a weapon is about 42-44%.

*        To deal with tiny bugs found in old books, freeze the book, then use a light brush/duster to brush them away.
*        Eggs may also be present, so it may be prudent to deal with that possibility.
*        To deal with eggs, freeze for 24-36 hours, then take out for 24-36 hours. Often, eggs will hatch, because, by doing this,
          you are throwing off their life cycle. Then, freeze again for 24-36 hours, and use a light brush/duster to brush them away.